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Joyce's Dublin

 Everyone who has been to Ireland has a Joyce in their hearts. Although the literary master spent most of his life away from his homeland, his early life experience in Dublin became an inseparable complex in his writing. Walking on the streets of Dublin, the narrow and bustling Grafton Commercial Street, the Holy Trinity College with a history of half a century, the banks of the Liffey River full of cold flying seagulls, the performances of painters and wandering entertainers on the open square, all Like Irish harp tunes, it has a mysterious atmosphere with clear sound. This atmosphere and breath are also entangled in Joyce's words.


At the beginning of the 20th century, Joyce's immortal masterpiece "Ulysses" was published, and the owner announced that Rum roamed the fictional and real Dublin, spending his long day in 18 hours walking through the city. Joyce said he wanted to condense the entire human experience of archaeology, history, anthropology, psychology, and literature into this thousand-page tome. It was a long day for Bloom and a classic day for literature. In the 1940s, Xiao Qian bought some of Joyce's works in Cambridge, including this "Ulysses", when the translator of Joyce recalled that he had just opened the book "Ulysses". During the scene, he still remembered that he had written the words "The Book of the Heavens, the disciple Xiao Qianqian read" in "clumsy" handwriting. For the translator Xiao Qian, Joyce is esoteric and worthy of worship, but it is difficult for ordinary readers to glimpse the day when the master announces Rum through the Irishman's deep metaphor-filled symbolism and highly stream-of-consciousness brushwork What the hell is going on.




It is speculated in private that most Irish people's understanding of Joyce is only known by his name and difficult to understand his text, just as readers generally recognize Lu Xun's master status, but few people can thoroughly grasp the spirit of his writing. In the Joyce Centre, north of the city of Dublin, we found a Chinese translation of Ulysses by Xiao Qian. In addition, Joyce's own manuscripts, letters, and the utensils he used, ranging from large suitcases to small inkwells, are all displayed as they are. Mr. Green, who is doing the voluntary tour here, told us: Joyce's words are still difficult for ordinary Irish readers to understand, but this does not affect the Irish people's worship of him. He is a symbol of Dublin because he wrote All are Dubliners, and the backgrounds he carefully depicts are real Dublin streets and houses. Dubliners couldn't understand Joyce's literary ambitions, but it was enough that they could see their own lives in Joyce's words.


It is not an exaggeration to say that Joyce said that if Dublin was destroyed, one could rebuild an identical city from Ulysses. Walk into the Visitor Center on O'Connell Street to pick up a variety of free city maps, including a unique "Ulysses" map. The map is filled with a large number of "JJ" symbols, which should be the initials of James Joyce's name, which represent important places that Bloom traveled on that day. For example, the starting point of this journey is 7 Eccles Street on the north side of the map, and the home of "Ulysses" owner Rum is located on this street. From here, you can follow the description of the work, starting from Beresford Square at a normal pace, walking to the west end of Montjoy Square, and then approaching St. The circular square in front of the church" went straight through. Many times, you and the characters in the works are at the same rhythm, and you feel that the boundaries between works and life, literature and reality begin to become blurred, and you have truly entered "Ulysses" and penetrated into Bloom's brain. .


When you follow the Ulysses map to Grafton Street, also known to Chinese tourists as "Widow Street", pay a little attention and you will find the narrow Duke Street. The David Byrne Bar at 21 Duke Street is now a Dublin travel destination. Because in Ulysses, Bloom first went to Burton's at 18 Duke Street and found the food "disgusting", so he went to David Byrne and asked for a cheese Sandwiches and a glass of Burgundy. Irish cheese is indeed famous, but if you are hungry at this time, you should still taste the Irish national dish "chaotic stew", that is, stewed lamb in Guinness stout, supplemented with carrots, celery and other side dishes, the portion is large enough It is also enough to warm your stomach. Pay attention to the introduction in the bar. It turns out that the earliest owner of the store was David Byrne. Joyce had a good relationship with him and wrote his bar into his book, which probably belongs to an earlier literary work. A classic example of placement.


Continue to follow the map from the Bourne pub, and you will find that the streets of Dublin are often inlaid with some printed copper plates, these copper plates are the size of magazines. Leaning over and looking, it said: "He passed by the silk shop run by Thomas." Comparing with "Ulysses", we will find that every corner of Dublin has this "he", that is, Bruce Mu's footprints. Although this is a fictional character, the Dublin he connected, including the silk shop, all existed. No wonder Joyce claimed that a Dublin could be restored through his book. Inadvertently, I found a large portrait of Joyce displayed in a drugstore, and when I saw its sign, I realized that this seemingly dilapidated stone building was the Sweeney drugstore where Bloom bought soap. Today, you can still pay 5 euros from the poetic-eyed clerk for a bar of Leopold Bloom's used bar of lemon soap.


The farther I traveled in Dublin, the closer I felt to Joyce. Joyce used Bloom's footsteps to inscribe Dublin on literary monuments, and we, like Bloom, walk from morning to night, walking between the lines of our own writing for Dublin.


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